My, Christmas came and when in a whirlwind!  I’m so sad it’s over, but also a bit relieved.  I felt like I was sprinting to a finish line and it feels sooooooo good to have Ruby’s playroom complete and already in full fun mode.  We stayed up until 3am putting it all together so it was ready for her on Christmas morning.  Santa’s elves work hard, man!  But it was worth it.  Her reaction was so perfect.  Best Christmas so far.  Can’t wait to share all of the details and room reveal next week.  But for now, let’s get back to the upstairs bathroom progress.

We were able to get a few items checked off the list last weekend– installing the new vanity top for the freshly painted vanity (we are waiting on some hardware, then I’ll do a painting cabinets tutorial.  We found some paint that is life-changing, people.  Coming soon).

If you’ve been hesitant before to install your own pre-made vanity top, let me tell you friends, don’t be.  It’s actually quite easy, but there are a few tips that can make it a lot easier, and also give you a professional’s touch.  Here is a breakdown of how to install a pre made vanity top.

First, let’s talk selection.  The problem with (most) pre made bathroom vanity tops is that they look cheap.   They have cheesy shell soap dish carve outs or strange swirls in the pattern.  But when planning out Ruby’s bathroom remodel, I knew this was going to be the way to go.  Because it’s a lesser used bathroom rarely seen by our guests, I didn’t want to go the more expensive route of a custom countertop.  I started looking around and was pretty impressed by Lowe’s selection.  The Allen + Roth line is my Lowe’s favorite, and they have a few great options.  We went with this one, which went great with the gray we chose for the cabinets.  It’s quartz and has an under-mount sink (so much better than a one piece).  Plus, it’s under $250.  Winner.

Installing it is pretty easy.  First, we removed all of the wrapping, dusted it off, and attached the faucet.  I think it’s easier to do this before it’s in place.  Easier to maneuver.

Then we got the cabinet ready.  Jon was happy to serve as hand model, and I’m behind the camera.  He takes his role as hand model very seriously.

We caulked all the way around on the top, but only on the spots where the countertop would come in contact with the cabinet.  When choosing caulking, make sure it’s a waterproof adhesive.  It helps if you cut the tip of the caulking tube on an angle, so it makes a cleaner line.

After caulking all the way around, it’s time to move the countertop into place.  This was a two-person job.  Go slow so you can line it up just right.  Once it’s in place, check to make sure there isn’t any extra caulking that squished out anywhere.

To install the backsplash, put caulking on the bottom of the slab, as well as on the back.  Then just line it up and press it into place.  Easy as pie.  Again, check for squish.  Very technical term.

After it’s all in place, it’s time to caulk the cracks.  This is where the angled-cut tip really helps a lot.  Caulk along all of the cracks, and as you go, use your finger to press it into place and clean up excess.  I like to keep a paper towel handy to wipe off my finger as I go along.

Our wall isn’t perfectly square, as most walls aren’t.  Because of that, the vanity and backsplash don’t lay exactly against the wall.  It’s annoying, but manageable.  To deal with it, I caulked it all in to fill in the gaps.

The entire process took about 10 minutes.  Connecting the faucet tacked on another 20.  Just 30 minutes and we had a shiny new vanity top.  Sooo much better than the crappy stained and cheap formica that was there before (remember the bizarre countertop extension over the toilet?).

Progress feels good!  We hope to have the entire room finished by the end of the weekend, so get ready for a whole bunch of details and project posts on the bathroom and playroom next week.  Wahoo!

Have a wonderful weekend,